My main pastime in the sea has been body surfing and as the best waves were where the board riders were I’d wear a bright yellow bathing cap to be seen. I was only hit once by a board, rewarded with a fabulous black eye.
It’s an amazing experience to be ‘lifted’ and transported forward on a wave. I’d stretch out the length of my body until I felt like a spear being flung forward.
My favourite beach to catch waves at was Titahi Bay, Wellington, where I could walk around to the far point of the bay, drive in behind the breakers and simply catch a ride back to the shore on a big wave. I spent two years as a Wallpaper Designer in a studio not far from this beach...lucky me.